You dream it, we make it.

Consultation

The highly talented team at Grade house are always on the lookout to work meticulously with designers of all levels, students and startups with their collections and new exciting clothing lines and will help you along the way. We believe in equal access to all of our services regardless of your level or market presence. We work with multiple product sectors and have over 80 years combined industry experience and always strive for perfection and excellence.

We can start working with you from a variety of points in your products lifecycle. If you have only rough sketches, initial patterns for amending or finalised patterns for digitising or made samples, we would love to hear from you and start your consultation process today, to realise your vision.

We efficiently work with a variety of media to keep connected if your at your office or on the move and if your not London based, that isn’t a problem we can still stay connected and guide you through the whole process. we also have a purpose fit and showroom for fit meetings and your private consultations.

We specialise in creative pattern cutting, pattern amendments, market specific grading, size charts, digitising, costing and marker making, file conversion and back-up, technical advise, toiling and first samples, fitting and technical advise, UK based manufacturing, quality control and so much more.

Creative Pattern Cutting

We can interpret your design sketch and vision into technical and accurate first patterns. Once your pattern is finalised you can use it an endless amount of times to create as many of your garment you want to.

We are skilled in a variety of pattern cutting methods from manual pattern cutting through block manipulation, drapery and measurements, to digital pattern cutting using blocks or previously made patterns from past seasons.

We are specialized in ladies, men’s and children wear including a variety of market sectors from high street to luxury.

We love the process of working from 2D to 3D and seeing your wonderful creations come to life. We at Grade House always work with 100% care and consideration for you designs. We always provide you with accurate and perfect patterns. We work side by side with you to ensure the exact pattern you wish for is created.

After we have created your pattern we will make it into a toil for you in either calico or a fabric similar to you final fabric (that is up to you) so you can decide if you are happy with your pattern or not!

Creative Pattern Cutting No rough sketch is too small for our team to create your patterns!

A pattern isn’t just for A one time use, it is for life.

Here are just a few points for what you will get from our Creative Pattern Cutting Services:

• Send us your sketch and we will Pattern Cut for you; which will create a 3D version of your design.
• Guaranteed, Accurate and Precise patterns, just how you need them.

Toiling & First Sample

We can create practise garments commonly referred to as “toiles” in an inexpensive but similar weight of fabric to check the fitting, construction, finishing’s, and silhouette of the base size. This can be a full or half toile and is the beginning of the comment and amendment process.

Once the toiling is complete and comments are taken into consideration we can make a first sample to check the actual fabric and components are fit for purpose and effectively convey the design aesthetic.
We ask that our clients provide a suitable fitting model that represents their targeted base size in order for us to properly evaluate the garment’s fit.

From your master patterns, we produce Toiles to ensure your patterns are just the way you want them.
-Using a fabric of your choice, we produce samples of your designs until you are satisfied with the final result!

Here are just a few points for what you will get from our Toiling & First Sample Services:

• Toiling after pattern cutting ensures you get the precise garment you want.
• Toiling will be in a fabric similar to your final fabric working from your pattern drafts. (a low cost way)
• Once you are 100% happy with your Pattern/Toile we can make you a beautiful Sample in your final fabric showing you what your garment will look like upon production.
• We guarantee you a beautiful finish with a high end quality when making your Sample.

Pattern Amendments

We can amend your existing patterns once they are in the system as well as provide subsequent amendments throughout the fitting and toiling process.

We will provide any amendments you require before grading or after grading in response to customer feedback and requirements.

For example, we can sweeten the lines, realign the grain line, adjust seams, facings and hem measurements. In addition to any other pattern amendments you may request.

Here are just a few points for what you will get from our Pattern Amendment Services:

• Amending Patterns can be hard no matter the amount of changes. We can guarantee you 100% Accurate and Precise patterns just how you request them.
• 10 years of experience in Amending Patterns.
• Answer any questions you may have regarding Pattern Amendments.
• Guide you along the was advising different ways of Amending if you’re not 100% sure.

Digitising

We can capture your manual patterns digitally in our system.

The digitizing process replicates the pattern piece exactly as it is, point by point, capturing every notch, drill hole, dart, internal line, and annotation.

With the pattern now digitised it can be printed, digitally adjusted, graded converted to other CAD pattern cutting systems, sent electronically to factories as well kept digitally for safe keeping.

Digitising is a very key aspect when it comes to patterns as having a hard copy pattern and transferring it to a digital format, you have to have 100% accuracy and we at Grade House can guarantee this for you. As we use a couple of different software’s that promote accuracy and precision.

Creative Pattern Cutting No rough sketch is too small for our team to create your patterns!
Digitise & Grading We can Digitise your patterns to create any digital file. This can then be passed on to our Grading experts to meet your high expectations.

Here are just a few points for what you will get from our Digitising Services:

• We use a couple of different software’s that promote accuracy and precision.
• We can open/convert your files to (not limited) DXF, Gerber, AI and PDF.
• We can offer to pre open your files to make sure we (and you) can receive your chosen format.
• You can have a copy of your digital pattern kept on our system for you to receive when ever you need. Even if you need it in 2 years time we will have it for you to access.

Pattern Grading

We use anthropometric knowledge to grade your pattern to specific size ranges from a base size sample pattern. We can apply industry standard grading rules, follow your company’s established grading system, or assist you in creating your own bespoke grading specifications. Grade House will ensure that the grade rule used reflects the targeted market sector for which the product is intended. Considering the price point, material type, retail level, and demographic of the consumer; gender, age range, garment usage, and their preferences in style and vanity.

Market Specific Sizing

Our ethos is that one size will not fit all, and therefore no one sizing system will be suitable for all our clients.

We believe the most successful route to market acquisition for clothing brands is to research and target a specific customer base in order to guarantee their satisfaction and, by extension their repeat business.

We invest time and our knowledge of 15 years in industry to enable our clients to expand beyond standard grading rules and into a more profitable sizing system designed specifically for them and their target demographic.

We can do this for young start-ups by discussing your researched consumer profile (gender, age range, garment usage, and their preferences in style and vanity) as well as for already established brands by analysing data on your current customer base.
The main markets we currently consult are a range of High End Luxury Designers to Start-up companies, however we are confident we can tackle further niche markets so feel free to book a consultation and challenge us to yours today.

Womenswear Grading

For ladieswear when designing a bespoke grading rule system the main aspects to take into account are the consumer profile (age range, garment usage and style preferences) and the place your brand sits in the current market.
Selecting and manipulating the size range is also particularly important for graders of womenswear as it can dramatically effect on the perception of the brand and therefore the amount of sales. For example selecting a size range that skews smaller or larger can be advantageous in different market sectors. Additionally the trend for vanity sizing amongst competing brands can be particularly profitable if executed within a bespoke grading system.

Menswear Grading

For menswear the sizes used are 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44… 60 or S, M, L… XXXL this will be determined by the type of garment. The identity of the customer and where the brand is placed in the market are contributing factors for deciding the measurements used in the base size pattern. The two measurements graders pay particular attention to are stature (ratio between chest and waist) and the height (short, regular or long).
Another feature of menswear grading is the research that indicates that men are less likely to try on garments before purchasing them. Bespoke grading means that you can design increments to maximise your exposure across the sizing spectrum and secondly you could closely align yourself to the sizes used by your competitors so that your consumer will be able to successfully select a size that fits and therefore reduce your amount of returns.

Childrenswear Grading

For childrenswear we recommend that age be used for sizing increments instead of height as market research suggests that height is confusing for consumers. Childrenswear can either be graded as single sizes or dual sizes, this will be determined by the type of garment and market sector. We will then consider which age group the range can be broken into, eg. babywear (0-2) kidswear (3-11) or teenwear (12-16). As you cross over into an older sector an additional base size pattern is recommended due to differences in growth between genders.
Bespoke grading is commonly used in childrenswear as it is more location targeted than other market types and garments will be sized differently in the UK compared to European or US standards.
We would also like to take this chance to reinforce the importance of adhering to each countries rules and regulations for components and fabrics when designing childrenswear. Further information on British garment manufacturing regulations can be obtained here.

Sportswear Grading

For sportswear the base size pattern will already contain enough allowances to allow ease of movement during the activity the garment is used for. It is the type of activity and garment type that will impact the design of the grading system. The core consumer of each of these garments are different, the fitted lyrca top is more likely to be consumed by a person concerned with high impact sports compared to a person who is new to sports who would be more likely to consume a regular t-shirt. Therefore you may consider sizing each of these slightly differently to meet the demands of each consumer.
We would also recommend using a single size system (eg. 8, 10, 12, 14, 16) not only because the fitting would be more comfortable but also as this would allow a customer to move down the range as physical fitness increases. This would enable the customer to see a more encouraging change and make them more likely to complete the purchase compared to a dual size system
(eg. S, M, L).

Plus Size Grading

The industry consider true plus size to be sizes above a UK size 18. One of the most important things we will consider for grading plus size is what type of body shape will the clients be as there is much greater variety in plus size bodies. There are also many opportunities for expansion in this market sector as different lines can target more niche body shapes such as plus size tall garments.
If you are planning to extend a previously established line above this threshold we would recommend creating an additional base size pattern in order to account for the different allowances needed in various parts of the garment. For example special attention needs to be paid to the measurements of the armhole, shoulder length, across back, bust waist and hips ratio.
If you are starting a new line devoted just to plus size clothing and need advice on standard grade rules for plus size we would recommend creating a base size pattern in sizes 18 or 22.

Maternity Grading

For maternity clothing the sizing is typically arranged as a normal UK size eg. 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 and then sometimes broken down further by trimester or month of pregnancy. The base pattern is typically aimed at a woman in the second to third trimester as normal clothing can fit some women for the first trimester. Trousers are sized using a waist size eg. 26, 28, 30, 32 and remains the same waist size as the woman would wear pre-pregnancy but accounts for extra growth in the stomach and additional areas in the base size pattern.
Bespoke grading is specifically useful in this market as woman’s bodies can change in different parts during pregnancy, so targeting a specific niche could be particularly profitable if done successfully.

Here are just a few points for what you will get from our Grading Services:

• 100% custom grading to your requirements.
• 15 years of experience Grading within our team.
• We will ensure that the grade rule used reflects the targeted market sector for which the product is intended.
• We can apply industry standard grading rules, follow your company’s established grading system, or assist you in creating your own bespoke grading specifications.

Technical Specification

We can provide graded spec sheets, tech packs, illustrations and technical drawings.

We will work closely with you to achieve the best fit for you target market, through fitting meetings with samples. through these sessions we will record all information and incorporate this into the technical pack optional as a service. These technical packs will include details on each fabric (including fusing and linings) as well as compositions. As optional extras you can also have spec sheet personalisation with branding, target market grading increments added, listed size set of measurements for production and technical drawings (AI). we can provide this as a hard copy or PDF/Excel file.

Here are just a few points for what you will get from our Technical Specification Service:

• In depth information on your garment.
• Everything from what fabric and trims are being used to detailed measurements of the garment.
• Optional Personalised Specifications adding your Brand Name/brand colour or anything you request to add your stamp!
• Optional grading for your target market.
• Optional AI flat detailed illustrations to show the shape, trim position, detail position, stitch detail and seam placement.
• Optional points of measure listed for all sizes to control your points of measure for production/quality control.

We believe in UK Manufacturing.
“You Dream it, We Make it”

We can manufacture within the UK or abroad. We have connections in and outside London.

The benefits of home production include the ability to monitor quality and liaise in person with the production team, it is also quicker and logistically easier to deliver finished orders to UK based retailers. It could also contribute to a more favourable image of the brand from both an ethical standpoint as well as in connection with the Made in Britain campaign.

Manufacturing in the UK would be best suited to smaller companies, with smaller runs as overseas factories will typically impose a minimum docket order. It could also potentially be more financially viable than production abroad once the costs of delivery of fabric, then products and liaising are factored in.

We are a part of an organisation called Make it British. Kate Hills launched the company at the beginning of 2011 and have become a source of information on the web for news, reports and interviews about British-made brands and UK manufacturing. At Make it British they believe that a product’s provenance is of the utmost importance.
Seeing a growing number of requests to help connect businesses with UK manufacturers, in 2014 Kate came up with the idea of Meet the Manufacturer – a trade show and conference exclusively for UK manufacturers. The event brings together the best of British manufacturers with buyers and designers looking to have their products made in Britain.

“To encourage more people to buy products made in Britain and help connect UK manufacturers with businesses that want to make quality goods in Britain.” Their Mission.

If you would like to contact Make it British please contact them via their online website form.

Contact Make it British

We believe in UK Manufacturing.
“You Dream it, We Make it”

We can manufacture within the UK or abroad. We have connections in and outside London.

The benefits of home production include the ability to monitor quality and liaise in person with the production team, it is also quicker and logistically easier to deliver finished orders to UK based retailers. It could also contribute to a more favourable image of the brand from both an ethical standpoint as well as in connection with the Made in Britain campaign.

Manufacturing in the UK would be best suited to smaller companies, with smaller runs as overseas factories will typically impose a minimum docket order. It could also potentially be more financially viable than production abroad once the costs of delivery of fabric, then products and liaising are factored in.

We are a part of an organisation called Make it British. Kate Hills launched the company at the beginning of 2011 and have become a source of information on the web for news, reports and interviews about British-made brands and UK manufacturing. At Make it British they believe that a product’s provenance is of the utmost importance.
Seeing a growing number of requests to help connect businesses with UK manufacturers, in 2014 Kate came up with the idea of Meet the Manufacturer – a trade show and conference exclusively for UK manufacturers. The event brings together the best of British manufacturers with buyers and designers looking to have their products made in Britain.

“To encourage more people to buy products made in Britain and help connect UK manufacturers with businesses that want to make quality goods in Britain.” Their Mission.

If you would like to contact Make it British please contact them via their online website form.

Contact Make it British

Quality Control

This service is broken down into two categories, inline production inspection and final / Acceptance Quality Limit (AQL) inspection.

Quality Control (QC) is one of the most important aspects of the Fashion Manufacturing processes, because if you don’t have good quality products what is the point?
Having a well made garment is important and having a production line of well made products is a necessity. It is a lot harder to create 10 identical skirts than it is to make one, but if it is done correctly it is achievable.
For everyone involved in the fashion industry especially for start-up companies all sorts of different problems can occur so why would you want to make this one of them? Quality Control (QC) it put in place to ensure the best quality is attained throughout every stage of the manufacturing process. For an example if you had a production line of 50 skirts and 10 of those were a size 8 you would want those size 8’s to all be identical, Quality Control (QC) by a specialist can ensure that this can be found if its not correct, so no mistakes are sent out to the next stage. Everything from making sure the stitching is in the correct place to measuring the garment ensuring accuracy down to the last millimetre. Your seamstress should keep an eye on what she/he are doing and aim to make no errors. But what if they miss something? That is why the Quality Control (QC) Specialist is there to assist, making sure everything is neat, tidy and strong!

Although yes the factory creating your items should have their own QC in place it is the responsibility of the brand/designer to clearly document what their particular standards and intentions for the outcome.

To reduce the problems upon sending your production/samples to your factory you need to make your all the knowledge on creating your garment is stated clearly in your technical packs and specification sheet. We can also help you with creating your technical packs and specification sheet or just to assure all information within the one you have created.
You must also always provide comments and quality control observations after the factory complete your sample so you can successfully move on to production.

Having a Quality Control (QC) Specialist check your work assures that you complete your work to the particular standard required and making sure you keep your promises to your customers, which can help to build a great working relationship. If the customer gets what they requested and earns your trust, they will more likely want to work with you again.

Here are just a few points for what you will get from our Quality Control Services:

• 100% accuracy upon measuring your garments/patterns.
• If you require 100% QC we can complete this.
• Ensure you have the best quality. We can guarantee this and make sure your work is complete to the particular standard required.
• We have an amazing eye for detail when it comes to product development. So and stitch out of line, or any measurement out of the tolerance we will notice and advise that it is put right.