Pattern Grading

We use anthropometric knowledge to grade your pattern to specific size ranges from a base size sample pattern. We can apply industry standard grading rules, follow your company’s established grading system, or assist you in creating your own bespoke grading specifications. Grade House will ensure that the grade rule used reflects the targeted market sector for which the product is intended. Considering the price point, material type, retail level, and demographic of the consumer; gender, age range, garment usage, and their preferences in style and vanity.
Market Specific Sizing
Our ethos is that one size will not fit all, and therefore no one sizing system will be suitable for all our clients.We believe the most successful route to market acquisition for clothing brands is to research and target a specific customer base in order to guarantee their satisfaction and, by extension their repeat business.We invest time and our knowledge of 15 years in industry to enable our clients to expand beyond standard grading rules and into a more profitable sizing system designed specifically for them and their target demographic.We can do this for young start-ups by discussing your researched consumer profile (gender, age range, garment usage, and their preferences in style and vanity) as well as for already established brands by analysing data on your current customer base. The main markets we currently consult are a range of High End Luxury Designers to Start-up companies, however we are confident we can tackle further niche markets so feel free to book a consultation and challenge us to yours today.
Womenswear Grading
For ladieswear when designing a bespoke grading rule system the main aspects to take into account are the consumer profile (age range, garment usage and style preferences) and the place your brand sits in the current market. Selecting and manipulating the size range is also particularly important for graders of womenswear as it can dramatically effect on the perception of the brand and therefore the amount of sales. For example selecting a size range that skews smaller or larger can be advantageous in different market sectors. Additionally the trend for vanity sizing amongst competing brands can be particularly profitable if executed within a bespoke grading system.
Menswear Grading
For menswear the sizes used are 34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44… 60 or S, M, L… XXXL this will be determined by the type of garment. The identity of the customer and where the brand is placed in the market are contributing factors for deciding the measurements used in the base size pattern. The two measurements graders pay particular attention to are stature (ratio between chest and waist) and the height (short, regular or long). Another feature of menswear grading is the research that indicates that men are less likely to try on garments before purchasing them. Bespoke grading means that you can design increments to maximise your exposure across the sizing spectrum and secondly you could closely align yourself to the sizes used by your competitors so that your consumer will be able to successfully select a size that fits and therefore reduce your amount of returns.
Childrenswear Grading
For childrenswear we recommend that age be used for sizing increments instead of height as market research suggests that height is confusing for consumers. Childrenswear can either be graded as single sizes or dual sizes, this will be determined by the type of garment and market sector. We will then consider which age group the range can be broken into, eg. babywear (0-2) kidswear (3-11) or teenwear (12-16). As you cross over into an older sector an additional base size pattern is recommended due to differences in growth between genders. Bespoke grading is commonly used in childrenswear as it is more location targeted than other market types and garments will be sized differently in the UK compared to European or US standards. We would also like to take this chance to reinforce the importance of adhering to each countries rules and regulations for components and fabrics when designing childrenswear. Further information on British garment manufacturing regulations can be obtained here.
Sportswear Grading
For sportswear the base size pattern will already contain enough allowances to allow ease of movement during the activity the garment is used for. It is the type of activity and garment type that will impact the design of the grading system. The core consumer of each of these garments are different, the fitted lyrca top is more likely to be consumed by a person concerned with high impact sports compared to a person who is new to sports who would be more likely to consume a regular t-shirt. Therefore you may consider sizing each of these slightly differently to meet the demands of each consumer. We would also recommend using a single size system (eg. 8, 10, 12, 14, 16) not only because the fitting would be more comfortable but also as this would allow a customer to move down the range as physical fitness increases. This would enable the customer to see a more encouraging change and make them more likely to complete the purchase compared to a dual size system (eg. S, M, L).
Plus Size Grading
The industry consider true plus size to be sizes above a UK size 18. One of the most important things we will consider for grading plus size is what type of body shape will the clients be as there is much greater variety in plus size bodies. There are also many opportunities for expansion in this market sector as different lines can target more niche body shapes such as plus size tall garments. If you are planning to extend a previously established line above this threshold we would recommend creating an additional base size pattern in order to account for the different allowances needed in various parts of the garment. For example special attention needs to be paid to the measurements of the armhole, shoulder length, across back, bust waist and hips ratio. If you are starting a new line devoted just to plus size clothing and need advice on standard grade rules for plus size we would recommend creating a base size pattern in sizes 18 or 22.
Maternity Grading
For maternity clothing the sizing is typically arranged as a normal UK size eg. 6, 8, 10, 12, 14, 16 and then sometimes broken down further by trimester or month of pregnancy. The base pattern is typically aimed at a woman in the second to third trimester as normal clothing can fit some women for the first trimester. Trousers are sized using a waist size eg. 26, 28, 30, 32 and remains the same waist size as the woman would wear pre-pregnancy but accounts for extra growth in the stomach and additional areas in the base size pattern. Bespoke grading is specifically useful in this market as woman’s bodies can change in different parts during pregnancy, so targeting a specific niche could be particularly profitable if done successfully. Here are just a few points for what you will get from our Grading Services:
  • 100% custom grading to your requirements.
  • 15 years of experience Grading within our team.
  • We will ensure that the grade rule used reflects the targeted market sector for which the product is intended.
  • We can apply industry-standard grading rules, follow your company’s established grading system, or assist you in creating your own bespoke grading specifications.
  • What makes us different?

    Technical Specification
    Combining illustrations, working drawings, fabrics, finishings and haberdashery details, outlining each stage of production – ensuring quality, aesthetic and safety at all times.
    Creative Pattern Cutting
    Skilled in a variety of pattern cutting methods from manual pattern cutting through to block manipulation, drapery and measurements.
    Pattern Amendments
    Changing your existing patterns throughout toiling, before or after grading in response to customer feedback and requirements.
    Toiling and First Sample
    Creating practice garments in a similar weight of fabric to check the fit on a model, construction, finishing, and silhouette of the base size.
    Capturing every detail of your manual patterns digitally into our CAD system making them ready for further amendments.
    Pattern Grading
    Applying industry standard grading rules, follow your company’s established sizing system, or assist you in creating your own bespoke grade specifications.
    File Conversion & Backup
    Converting and backing up your files to any compatible CAD system formats such as AAMA, DXF, HPGL, and exporting to Illustrator.
    Costing and Marker Making
    Using computerised marker making software to provide a quick, economical way of calculating how much fabric is required for each pattern.
    Supplying you with full-scale graded paper nests, paper sets and card sets for you to use or to send to your factory.
    UK Based Manufacturing
    With connections in and outside of London, it is quicker and logistically easier to deliver finished orders to UK based retailers.
    Quality control
    Liaising with the manufacturer and undertaking the role of garment technician to oversee the quality of your order.
    Overseas Manufacturing
    We can manufacture within the UK or abroad. We have connections in and outside London.
    Fabric Sourcing
    We here at Grade House Ltd can source the right materials for your project. We take the hassle out of your sourcing

    Become A Part Of Our Team

    Would you like to become a part of our dedicated team? Do you want to better your skills within product development? Are you a productive, passionate and determined person? Take a look at our vacancies or send us a message about what you love and we will be sure to get back to you.